Water heaters are an essential household appliance. However, when they go wrong, it’s important to recognize the signs and act quickly.

For example, if your house doesn’t have sufficient hot water, this could be a sign that your tank is reaching the end of its lifespan. In such a situation, a new water heater will be required. For professional help, contact Water Heater Replacement Denver.

One of the most common causes for hot water heater malfunction is a burned-out heating element. This can be caused by a number of issues, including sediment buildup, electrical problems, and overheating. In addition, the thermostat may be malfunctioning and not turning the elements on and off correctly, leading to insufficient heating.

Fortunately, a burned-out heating element is fairly easy to replace yourself with a little know-how and the right tools. First, shut off electric power to the water heater and drain it by opening the drain valve on the tank and directing a hose to it. Once all the water has drained, you can proceed to disconnect the wiring and remove the element from the tank.

If the element is a screw-in type, you can use a wrench to loosen and unscrew it from the tank, and then pull it out. You can also remove a flange-type heating element by removing the four screws that hold it in place and then removing the gasket that seals it to the tank.

Once the old element is removed, you can reconnect the wires and screw in a new one. Before proceeding, it’s a good idea to test the new element with a multimeter or non-contact circuit tester to make sure there is no electrical current flowing to it.

If the test passes, it’s a good idea to buy two new heating elements (they often come in pairs) and install them at the same time. This will prevent one from going bad shortly after the other, and may save you a costly replacement service in the future. When installing the new element, remember to tighten it as you would a faucet, by starting out by hand and then gradually working up to a full-tighten. You don’t want to over-tighten, as this could lead to leaks around the new heating element.

Thermostat

A water heater is one of those appliances that will eventually wear out, and the need for a Water Heater Replacement becomes inevitable. Getting regular maintenance can prolong the life of your water heater, but it is important to know when it’s time for a new unit.

The average water heater has a lifespan of between eight and ten years. A newer model will not only last longer but will also be more energy efficient, saving you money in the long run.

Another warning sign that it’s time for a new water heater is when you start to notice a lack of hot water. The cause may be an issue with the thermostat, or it could be that your tank is starting to rust. Water leaking from the base of the water heater is an obvious problem that should be dealt with immediately by a professional.

Hissing or rumbling noises from your water heater are usually a sign of sediment buildup. A professional can flush your water heater to remove the sediment and restore the heating function.

Rusty water is often a result of hydrogen gas reacting with non harmful bacteria in the water supply. The water is not dangerous, but you should call a plumber to drain the water heater and replace the elements.

A new water heater will cost more upfront, but it will start paying for itself in lower energy bills right away. The experts at Draft Control can help you decide which size and type of water heater is right for your home. They can also guide you on essential maintenance that will keep your unit running efficiently for as long as possible.

Anode Rod

Anode rods, also known as sacrificial anode rods, are long metal rods that run down the center of water heater tanks. They’re typically made of aluminum, magnesium, or zinc wrapped around a steel wire core. As the name suggests, they serve as sacrificial anodes, sacrificing themselves to attract rust from the inside of the tank. They’re not permanent and will deteriorate over time, making it necessary to replace them. There are several signs that indicate it’s time to replace your anode rod, including a distinctive rotten egg smell when running hot water and reduced hot water output from your tank.

The odor is caused by sulfur bacteria that find their way into your water supply from decaying rock and soil. Swapping out your magnesium or aluminum anode rod for one made of a zinc-aluminum alloy can help reduce the odor and prevent the formation of the bacteria.

Another sign that it’s time to change your anode rod is if the inside of your tank has begun to corrode, resulting in rusty or discolored water. Additionally, you might notice a slimy gel substance in your faucet aerators when the anode rod is deteriorating.

To change your anode rod, you’ll need to drain a small amount of water from the tank. Connect a garden hose to the valve at the bottom of your tank, leading to a bucket, and drain about 5 gallons to relieve pressure. Once the tank is empty, you can disconnect the hex nut from the anode rod and remove it. Before you do, consult your unit’s manual for specific instructions on locating and accessing the anode rod. Once loose, the anode rod should pull straight out of its installation point.

Dip Tube

If you notice white flecks of plastic in your hot water, it’s likely time to replace your dip tube. Dip tubes are usually made from petroleum-based plastic and over time disintegrate, especially in 140 degree water. They’re easy to replace and a simple DIY task, but it requires you turn off the circuit breaker that delivers power to your heater, drain the tank, disconnect the cold water supply line, and remove the short piece of pipe threaded on both ends at the top of your hot water tank, which is where the dip tube is located. Once you remove the inlet nipple and the connector on the cold water pipe, you can use a flat screwdriver to loosen the tube from the nipple.

The function of the dip tube is to direct incoming cold replacement water down to the bottom of your heater for heating, so that it remains segregated from the hot layer on top of your tank. Without the dip tube, cold incoming water escapes up to the top and mixes with the hot layers and you end up with lukewarm water for your showers and faucets.

A faulty dip tube can be replaced with a PVC pipe of the same diameter, but it’s recommended that you choose a cross-link polyethylene (PEX) tube to replace your old one. PEX pipes are very durable and won’t disintegrate in the heat of your water heater. They’re also easier to install, since they can be threaded onto existing piping. Be sure to use a new gas valve, as well, and a temperature-pressure relief valve for safety. Also, be sure to turn off your gas breaker before you start working on your water heater.

Pressure Valve

The pressure valve of a water heater helps to alleviate excess pressure within the tank, thus protecting against potential tank bursts. It’s also important for safety, as it will prevent hot water from flowing in a direction that might harm people or property.

There are a few different types of water heater pressure valves. The type that you choose will depend on the size of your system and how much pressure it can handle. You should select a valve that’s compatible with your application and complies with applicable standards, including the ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code and API.

A basic safety valve or relief valve has a disc or diaphragm that rests on a seat to keep it closed until system pressure reaches its set pressure limit. It can be spring-supported or have an adjusting screw to alter the set pressure. Some have an auxiliary piston that operates the main valve to open it.

Once the pressure reaches its set limit, it will push against the valve seat and cause it to lift. As the valve lifts, it exposes a larger area of the disc to system pressure. It can be designed with a secondary control chamber or huddling chamber that enhances lift by increasing the flow of fluid through it as it opens.

Depending on your location, you may need to change from the traditional natural or propane gas venting system to something called direct venting. This system uses a double-chambered vent pipe to carry exhaust gases outside of your home and at the same time allow fresh air into the room. This system is required by building codes in many areas.